This uncooked, ripened cheese was well known as far back as the 13th century. It's made from whole or partially skimmed cow's milk and has a milk fat content of about 50 percent. The square-shape cheese has a golden or golden-orange rind. The interior is pale yellow with a creamy, softly oozing texture and a fresh, sweet-tart flavor. A well-ripened Pont l'évêque will smell strong but not stinky. Avoid those that are gummy or bitter tasting. See also cheese.